The original article is linked on the Salon Marketing portal.
Natalia Goncharenko
The author of books about business in the beauty industry, which are read in 35 countries of the world. Consultant, founder of The Concepts international business school.
Hello!
Today we will talk with Serhiy Kleimenov, the founder of the Ukrainian men's cosmetics brand Free on Friday™. And let's talk not only about its product, but also about the specifics of distribution.
- Serhiy, first of all, tell me where the idea came from and how is it professional cosmetics for daily use?
I began to try various imported products that are not known in Ukraine, I ordered from Europe and the States.
But I was constantly missing something, I started taking notes, capturing ideas for myself and when, thanks to covid, I needed to start a new business in 2020, I thought it was the right time.
The task was to create a line of men's grooming products that would combine classics, modern men's fashion trends and the latest developments in the field of styling and care for everything that grows on a man's head.
Then we created a line of products that covered all the needs of a modern man in terms of self-care, from shampoo and shower gel to beard styling. We managed to make cosmetics that are convenient to use and retain their naturalness - weak and medium fixations, minimal gloss, light universal fragrance.
We understood even then that no matter which Free on Friday product we started using, eventually the whole line would be in the bathroom, so we immediately made all the products with one fragrance, so as not to turn the man into a flower bed in the morning. So, we also have our own Mintrus fragrance, which is skillfully combined with any men's perfume.
Even at the development stage, I started communicating with barbers to hear their needs, pains, and requirements for the tools used in their work.
Later, we took many things into account and added components to the recipe that are invisible to the consumer and will not only make the work much easier for craftsmen, but also make the tools safe to use.
- What does Free on Friday consist of today and how has the assortment changed over the years?
Now there are 11 products in the assortment.
6 Musthaves – All Purpose Shampoo, Refreshing Shower Gel, Clear Shave Gel, Deodorant, After Shave Lotion and Soap Bar.
2 hair products - water-based matte paste and styling powder. And 3 beard care products - nourishing oil, moisturizing balm and beard styling cream.
At the end of 2021, we launched a line of professional cosmetics for salons and barbershops. It currently includes shampoo, shaving gel and cologne. Customers receive the same high-quality and reliable product, but in a larger container, which allows us to significantly reduce our price and, accordingly, improve the cost of their services.
I really like collaborations and, above all, with other Ukrainian brands, as I believe that we are not competitors in this market, at least now. So, for example, together with Pohvalin, we developed our signature toiletry bag - at first glance, nothing special, but a very convenient size, high-quality accessories and reliable denim inside.
Later, with another manufacturer of men's cosmetics, and actually a competitor, Boroda made a soap on a rope - like ordinary soap, but thanks to the rope, it is convenient to use. Now we are preparing another product with a manufacturer of women's cosmetics, whom we met at the Vsy.Svoi market.
- Interesting! It seems like ordinary means, but does everyone have something special? Even in such simple products as shower gel or deodorant?
Of course! Literally everyone has something that sets us apart from other products and it's not just the scent. Briefly on each.
Shampoo – a man won't have several jars, but he deserves a conditioner that works. Yes, this is an additional cost component and can be saved, but it is not fair. And if we add a conditioning substance, why not take one that will take care of the skin of the barber's hands at the same time? They wash 10 heads a day and sometimes wash each one twice. Imagine how dry the skin is if you don't take care of it. Of course, it is more profitable for the owner of the salon to use cheap tools, because the problem of the master's hands is not his problem.
Shower gel is really refreshing, very refreshing, noticeably refreshing because we used natural menthol in the composition. Yes, not everyone likes it, but when you need a feeling of real freshness and not only in the aroma, then this is our option.
Shaving gel – the same menthol works as a local anesthetic on the skin due to the cold shock effect. Shaving is simply not felt, and thanks to the transparency of the gel, you can control exactly what you are shaving, which is extremely important if a man wears a beard and contours himself. Apparently, the masters also appreciated it.
Deodorant – No over-promising that our deodorant will keep you sweat-free for endless hours. But we guarantee freshness and comfort throughout the day. The transparent texture of the deodorant is instantly absorbed, leaving no traces on clothes. Mintrus signature aroma (mint+citrus) not only adds to the mood, but also combines well with other Free on Friday products. Of course no aluminum or parabens.
The lotion is our latest innovation and we have added cannabis, which not only improves mood, soothes the skin, but also has a healing effect on micro-cuts after shaving.
Paste - water base, vegetable wax and the latest generation of clay is the key to easy application and rinsing from both hair and hands after application. So you won't have to wash your hands for a long time after styling your hair. Yes, it is more expensive in terms of cost, but it is worth it.
Powder is our constant top, which, like deodorant, is bought by girls in half of the cases. The smallest powder on the market, we barely fit 12g into a 100ml bottle. It will not fall to the roots of the hair, it works instantly, which allows you to quickly add volume or make a texture in the hairstyle.
Beard balm and oil are our organic pride, as there are no synthetic ingredients in these products. There is no superpower here, everything just works reliably and comfortably, for any bearded man, regardless of the length of his beard, this is a must-have.
Beard styling cream is our best seller among beardsmen because there is no reliable beard styling product on the market. Anyone who has tried it knows that hair products are not suitable for beards at all, and you can't put beard balm in - you need a fixative, but a special one.
- With that, everything is clear, thank you for the interesting and sometimes unexpected comments. And tell me, please, what is your experience of cooperation with salons? Does it work exclusively with barbershops?
Everything is not so good here, unfortunately. First, I work with all conscious salons or barbershops, although of course there are more of the latter. Secondly, from my experience, there are several main problems that are mostly inherent in barbershops themselves:
Ignorance The vast majority of owners or managers of salons do not understand the tools used by their masters. Usually, the choice of a product comes down to 2 criteria - price and smell. The cheaper the better. The smell is generally a subjective thing and no one thinks about what it is made of and whether it contains allergens that the craftsmen will regularly breathe.
Engagement. Most barbers are brand addicted – they use what's cool. Composition, sometimes properties, very rarely safety - it does not matter. It is a well-known brand and that is enough, regardless of who, when and where made it famous. A well-told private label with a long history can be doomed to success.
Lack of economic patriotism. Sometimes it is easier for me to sell abroad than to persuade a Ukrainian barber to use Free on Friday. Sometimes it even reaches the point of absurdity - it is better to use products that are still sold in Russia than to try something new.
Inability to sell. Of course, it is difficult to sell a product that you do not know. But there is no motivation to figure things out and earn more. One of my Swedish clients, a chain of barbershops, has a share of cosmetics sales of more than 50% of the salons' total revenue. We don't even have such indicators. The owners do not pay attention to this, believing that the main profit is in services and nominally implement ineffective systems of motivating craftsmen from the sale of cosmetics. And this is not a question of increasing one profit at the expense of another, it is literally additional money that does not create additional costs.
Although, it is worth noting that there are exceptions - one of my clients in Kyiv has record sales of shower gel in a barbershop thanks to a simple model - he simply asks regular customers who come to him every 3-4 weeks during the payment for a haircut whether they ran out of gel (which is just enough for this time).
- It seems, as you say, "ignorance" is the main problem not only of owners or managers, but also of masters. How do you think this can be fixed?
I agree. Having learned more about the means, their properties, composition, etc., it will be easier to buy and sell, and, accordingly, to increase the share of sales of cosmetics in income.
I started talking more with the masters about it. For example, at the last all-Ukrainian meeting of barbers in Kharkiv, I was given a microphone and time to speak on stage, where I discussed with them in half an hour 1 tool that they use most often - shampoo. He told in simple words about the composition, without delving into chemistry. Explained what sulfates are and what is their difference.
We talked about conditioners and fragrances separately. Learned to read the label without having special knowledge. In the end, I asked how they wash the hair of clients and it turned out that some of them do not know how to use shampoo, so we talked about how to wash and how to dry afterwards. The most important thing for me was the feedback and knowing that they were interested.
So I see some perspective in such educational activities and plan to devote time and attention to it.
- Thank you for the conversation! In fact, it would be interesting to talk to you separately about shampoo :)
Mutually! Thanks for the interesting questions and I would love to talk about shampoo.
